Bangkla/Phanom: Snack Vendor, Café, and Former Patients

My grandfather is Norm from Cheers. Wherever he goes in Bangkla Thailand, or the surrounding area, you can hear people shot out, “Maw Willi!” (they often leave the “s” off of “Willis”). His work and time spent in this part of the country have endeared him to the people of the area. On Friday I have a chance to see firsthand the result of that work. In the morning I take part in what has become my usual routine: wake up at 5:00am, read with Granddaddy, eat breakfast, go to morning worship, and make skype calls home. My grandfather begins his work, with John Mark in his observation role. While looking for photograph opportunities I notice that a man with a mobile cart has parked in front of the hospital and is selling fruit and drinks. I approach the smiling man and begin pointing to the many different fruits. I quickly notice a drink in his cart and ask attempt to ask about it. After little success one of the nurses from the hospital comes outside and helps translate for me. I ask her if the drink is sweet, I am told that it is. I purchase one, place a straw inside the bottle and take my first sip. My initial reaction is shock from what feels like a slimy worm that has traveled up the straw and into my mouth. My secondary reaction is to think, “THIS DOES NOT TASTE GOOD!!” After managing to choke down the first sip I ask what the slimy things are inside the drink and I am told they are some kind of jelly strings. I thank the man for the beverage and retreat into the hospital. After holding the drink for a few minutes I slip away to dispose of it.

With an odd taste left in my mouth I am in need of a familiar drink. I pack up my computer, and head to Ran Jeck Cheu, a restaurant very close to the hospital. The restaurant is an establishment that was often frequented by my mother and her family while they live in Bangkla. My grandfather is well known to the owners, but I am left with the problem of informing them that I am his grandson. I sit down at a table, and after trying verbally communicate with the elderly man and woman who seem to be in charge, I retrieve my computer and show them pictures of my grandfather and mother. The pictures, they understand. I am quickly offered a menu. I tell them, using my charades method, that I am only thirsty. I am brought a coke. I sit down to spend time writing. I assume that the restaurant is a family business and that the multiple young waitresses, who keep glancing over at me, are related to the proprietor. After spending a few minutes writing I hear giggles, I look up to see eyes quickly dart away from me. I smile and continue writing. A few minutes later I notice that one by one the girls are taking turns walking behind me to see what I am doing on my computer. Noticing this, the older woman comes out of the kitchen and scolds the girls in Thai. After consuming my coke, I am brought out a hot green tea; I find the warm beverage relaxing. I finish writing and return to the hospital for lunch, but am refused the opportunity to pay for my beverages. I leave a tip on the table and promise to return with my grandfather.

In the afternoon Gift and her sister drive in from Bangkok and we discuss church on Sunday. Having been offered the opportunity to preach at her and Dui’s church, I need to discuss the subject with Gift, who will translate for me. Soon after we finish it is time for the hospital to close. Gift and her sister remain in Bangkla, while My grandfather and Agan Weechai, take John Mark and I to the countryside close to Phanom to see former patients of my grandfather. Our first stop is to the house of Pim. Pim was a man who was badly injured but saved due to the surgical expertise of my grandfather. He passed away several years ago but we visit his grandchildren who remember my grandfather. After taking a few pictures and speaking with the oldest grandson for a few minutes we leave and to travel to our next stop.

Boowaloy is fifty-three years old. When she was ten she fell off of a house badly damaging her spine, my grandfather saved her life and has remained friends with her. With only minor use of her wrist and hands, she has survived in rural Thailand for fourty-three years. When we walk inside her house, I immediately notice that she looks quite healthy for someone who has been bedridden the majority of their life. I also notice the look on her face when she sees my grandfather. The two spend time speaking and when the time comes for us to leave both have tears in their eyes. Seeing even more of the tangible love my grandfather has, not only for a country, but for the people of that country overwhelms me and I step outside to shed a few tears of my own. As we drive away from Boowaloy’s house my grandfather comments, “This will probably be the last time I will ever see her.” Harlan Willis gazes silently out the window, and wipes the tears from his eyes.



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